by Matt Lee and ted Lee
photos by peter Frank edwards
Whether it goes by the name Damariscotta, or Cotuit, or Rappahannock River, an oyster harvested from this side of the Atlantic is always the same animal, Crassostrea virginica. But more than most edible organisms, the Atlantic oyster seems to express most vividly on the plate the conditions of its growth–its terroir, in wine parlance. Shell shape, color, flavor and texture all vary widely from place to place, as the underwater environment changes. In the Lowcountry, and particularly the Folly River, oysters grow into long, atten- uated shapes, in clusters that reach like torches out of the water at low tide. The local oyster isn’t expensive–in fact, most restaurants avoid it–but it tastes better (meatier, gamier, like a pluff -mud cocktail) than any we’ve encountered up and down the East Coast. We served the legendarily critical Travel Channel gourmand Anthony Bourdain his first Charleston oyster at a roast on Edisto Island, and his reaction was the most effusively positive expression he’s ever allowed on his show.
Along the South Carolina coast, cooking oysters outdoors is so much a part of life that even the camellia-curling frosts of deep winter don’t drive people inside. When October hits, we root around in the toolshed for our oyster knives and gloves, preparing for the first oyster roast of a fall and winter that typically brings a dozen invitations. Cooking oysters Lowcountry-style couldn’t be simpler: build a roaring fire on level ground, and set a trestle made of four cinder blocks and a sturdy sheet of scrap steel over it, to serve as an extra- large griddle. When the metal is searing hot, you shovel on a layer of oysters and blanket them with water-soaked burlap bags or old towels. The oysters roast and steam in their shells and acquire hints of the wood smoke that swirls in thick gusts around the enterprise. Five to 10 minutes later, you remove the towels and shovel the oysters onto a rustic table scattered with gloves and knives, so the guests can gather around to shuck and slurp down the briny treats.
Much of the perfection of this style of oyster roast can be replicated indoors. A simple broiling pan with a third of an inch of water in the bottom is the perfect method for steaming them open, and six minutes at 475 degrees produces the best results, with most of the oysters nicely half-cooked, their shells opened slightly and easy to shuck. none of the oysters will overcook and a few will remain uncooked but hot, the fishy and minerally flavors of the oyster pleasantly inten- sified, compared with its chilled, raw state.
The aromatherapy element of the outdoor wood- fired roast can be approximated by placing a tray of a quarter-cup of wet apple-wood smoking chips on the bottom shelf of the oven, to produce an outdoorsy scent.
Cover the table with a protective layer of newspaper — the salmon-tinted Charleston Mercury looks best — and set out pairs of oyster knives, dishrags and thick, blue dishwashing gloves. The gloves provide a measure of protection from the sharp oyster shells and along with the knives serve as party favors.
Oven-Roasted Oysters
Time: 45 minutes
- 100 to 120 unshucked oysters, scrubbed clean
- 6 small lemons, cut into wedges
- Tabasco, or other pepper sauce
- Sour orange mignonette (see recipe).
1. Heat oven to 475 degrees. Working in batches, arrange oysters in a single layer in a 12-by-16-inch roasting pan fitted with a flat rack. Pour 1/3. inch of hot tap water into pan, and bake for 7 minutes, or until oyster shells have begun to open.
2. Using gloves or tongs, transfer oysters to a table covered in newspaper for guests to shuck, garnish and eat while next batch cooks. Add water to pan as necessary, and repeat roasting until all oysters have been served, about 45 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges hot sauce, and sour orange mignonette.
Sour Orange Mignonette
Time: 30 minutes’ refrigeration
Yield: 2 cups, enough for 120 oysters.
- 1 3/4 cups Seville orange juice (about 8 oranges; substitute a blend of orange and lemon juice if you can’t find sour oranges)
- 1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
- 2 large shallots, finely chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar.
Whisk ingredients together in a small bowl until sugar dissolves. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator for half an hour.
